One Hit Wonders

Laura Avery
Mirror contributing writer

   Can we focus here? With all the hundreds (we once counted 330 different items) of California-grown produce for sale at a typical farmers’ market, how, one may wonder, is it possible to single out one particular thing to make a simple and memorable dish? In spite of the best laid plans that might include a legible shopping list and a set amount of cash, I would venture to guess that the average market goer makes more than one shopping detour per market visit – who knew that a Lee tangerine could taste so good or that today the tri-flavor hummous would prove irresistible?
   Commonplace vegetables, often overlooked and under-appreciated, can become the centerpiece of a taste sensation that will stay in one’s memory for weeks. In the case of ingredients with a very short shelf life, like seafood or tender greens like watercress, a dish can become a weekly event to be enjoyed right after the market. Sometimes a side dish will be amenable to taking center stage at breakfast or lunch before returning as a humble leftover at a bigger meal later on.
   Simple ingredients that become one-hit wonders are everywhere. You can take the commonly misunderstood escarole and create a delicious soup by adding only some herbs and garlic. This is a green that gives generously of its hidden flavors and its preparation is amazingly simple and rewarding. Another simple and astonishingly good soup can be quickly made with just some zucchini and a handful of watercress. The peppery cress enlivens the zucchini, which remains the star of this dish as it yet again proves just how versatile it can be.
   You can make either a dessert or a breakfast accompaniment with a smooth skinned butternut squash. This winter squash is easily peeled and then can be diced and sauteed with butter and olive oil. It will caramelize as it slowly cooks and can be drizzled with maple syrup. This was so good that we began experimenting with adding just one other flavor – sage, for example. We are still stocking butternut squash, which stores well, in a corner of the kitchen and it can be summoned forth when creativity strikes.
   Thanks to Green Farm there is plenty of asparagus in many Los Angeles area markets almost year round, and it is one of the simplest vegetables to prepare. We were getting some every week all summer long to go with our grilled burgers – a delectable finger food that is not a french fry. Artichokes have also become pretty common throughout the year and with a big bowl for the discarded leaves and plenty of garlic dipping butter they’re (almost) just like eating popcorn. Tender young artichokes are available seasonally and they can be eaten simply quartered and pan-fried.
   It’s very easy to go home with a pound or two of Santa Barbara mussels or ridgeback shrimp and cook up a great dish in about five minutes. There really is a difference in the flavor and plumpness of Ecomar’s open sea farmed mussels, which feed on abundant kelp in ocean waters. They can even be cooked by just laying them on a hot grill then tossing them in lemon butter. Lobster-flavored ridgebacks are only in season for six months of the year, so plan to enjoy them right now.
   No, one hit wonders did not go out with the eighties. They are still with us. Chow down!