An Anniversary

Laura Avery
Mirror contributing writer

   On Saturday, May 12, the Santa Monica Organic/Certified Farmers’ Market celebrated its tenth anniversary. Forty-seven farmers were in attendance that day, including fourteen who have been coming to the Market since its opening day on May 11, 1991. 
   Market manager Mort Bernstein, who has been running the market for nine of its ten years, presided over numerous raffles and announcements which gave the customary throngs of shoppers a chance to hear a few things about the farmers they support with their dollars each week. You could win a three-pack of Harry’s Berries Gaviota strawberries -– probably the only place on earth that you can find this particular variety; or a pound of Dave Davall’s exclusive honey dates. You might have picked up a basket of the very first cherries of the season –- one of the few California fruits that does not have to compete with early season imports — or some very rare blueberries from a new farmer. The best thing about the raffles was that if your number wasn’t called, you could still march right over to the farmers’ stands and buy whatever you didn’t win.
   Seeing hundreds of customers in freeze-frame during the hourly raffles was an arresting experience. Many of them claimed to be long-time market patrons, and not a few had been coming to the market since opening day. These valued customers are the engine that drives the farmers’ market –- and the reason that farmers get up at three in the morning to drive to markets like Santa Monica’s. An elderly Lithuanian couple spoke proudly of coming to the Saturday market by bus since the day it opened, and they knew that they were getting the best produce on earth. They were especially thrilled with the sugar snap peas they had just purchased, which, they asserted, were good for heartburn. I nodded, and accepted some samples. Their beaming faces did not invite disagreement on the subject.
   The Saturday market was planned to accommodate Santa Monica residents who could not shop mid-week at the Wednesday market. Customers had also been asking for more organic produce, and it seemed like the best-made plan would be to accomplish both goals at once. The existing rules for participation were modified to allow organic farmers to carry for two additional farmers, which was the maximum provided for under state regulation — Wednesday’s market allowed for only one additional grower per stand. We envisioned organic farmers pooling resources to send a truck and driver to market each week. As it turned out, farmers did not hasten to form mini organic coops, and instead we recruited farmer by farmer from our waiting list. On opening day there was a higher proportion of organic to conventional farmers than at any other market in southern California, and over the past ten years the Saturday market has attracted new organic farmers. In addition, some conventional farmers have been encouraged to make the transition to organic due to consistent urging from their customers.
   The health and viability of a farmers’ market is measured by how well the individual farmers do. As sales increase and remain constant, farmers will continue to grow and experiment with new types of produce. Farmer to consumer communication helps the farmers in planning their crop rotation, in how much to bring to market and in building customer loyalty. There has been a tremendous increase in popularity of heirloom varieties, especially of tomatoes, potatoes squash and melons because both farmers and consumers agreed to undertake the experiment. One of the best indicators of a market’s strength is to see who shows up on a rainy day. We have found over the years that few of the regulars -– either farmers or shoppers -– will miss out on a market day even in the rain.
   Market manager Bernstein is pleased with the sense of community that the Saturday Organic Certified Farmers’ Market has created in downtown Santa Monica each week. Small farms around California will grow, prepare and plan for their perennial weekend trips into Santa Monica’s downtown an eleventh year. Thanks and congratulations to farmers, patrons and management for creating a little bit of heaven out there on the street.