The Rock’s Formation

Stephanie J. Gaines

Mirror Contributing Writer

   The color scheme of the new Rock restaurant on Maxella Avenue in Marina Del Ray is bright beach aqua blue paired with a '60s singles pad painted orange. The feeling inside is decidedly happy.
   Hans Rockenwagner's latest venture stands in stark contrast to the subdued, nuanced walls within the restaurant walls that have become home to many Santa Monicans on Main Street. Nestled among the chain stores and commercial blocks in the center of the Marina, the Rock offers some flair and funk to the passersby who will become its clientele.
   The Rock's creation, however, was born of a tradition re-created one evening every week outside on the angular patio of Rockenwagner's called 'Stomptisch'. Its German translation is 'the root or trunk of the tree' (stom) and 'community table' or 'regulars' (tisch). For a number of years now, regulars have gathered, and strangers have become standard to this roundtable discussion of politics, work, love and food, creating an extended family from the laughter that spills into the night air on Main.
   This communal feeling has found its way through to the structure of the Rock. A center table runs nearly the length of the main room where pairs of diners will sit cheek-by-jowl and no longer be strangers. In the far corner, near the chef's prep, a small table will soon become habitual. Near The Rock’s entrance is the clearly convivial bar.
   The Rock's formal opening has long been scheduled for Monday evening, July 19, however, Hans and his co-proprietor and fiancée, Patti Shin, decide a test-run week-end would do and instead open their doors on Saturday evening, July 17.
   It is now midday on Saturday. Bright light fills the space still laden with the remnants of construction and Hans and Patti mill among workers in a collective calm. The pair met via a Stomtisch 'founding father' and this same spirit seems to infuse their life together and their endeavors.
   Indeed, after strolling past this space with the 'For Lease' sign during many months of weekend walks, the two set out to explore the potential of the space which had served as home to a handful of restaurants. And after the process of permit and license approvals, local homeowner approvals, one lofty investment and interior designer later, suddenly it’s opening night and they have no idea how many will attend.
   Night comes and along with it women in black dresses and chokers and men with goatees and attitude and sure enough the place is hopping.
   Eager waiters approach with colorful, four-page, pull-out menus, offering a range of salads, soups, appetizers, entrees and desserts, from the exotic and esoteric to the traditional.
   We sampled from 15 small dishes brought to our table, including Spanish white anchovies, housemade mozzarella and kimchee ($2 to 4$). Of the half-dozen salads, we chose a Fritto misto of deep -friend artichokes and lemons with Parmesan, almost a meal in itself ($8.50).
   One taste created a lasting memory of the fontina-stuffed risotto croquettes with roasted pepper ketchup ($6.95). Two bites of this appetizer appeared decadent as we were next presented “from the oven” Hoisin-shitake mushrooms, garlic, spinach and fontina on a scallion crust served on a wooden platter.
   Main meals are quartered into two types of service—family style dishes for two or more, including the rockfish soup with fennel, steamed potatoes, French beans and mustard “rouille,” topping the price list at $15.50 per person, and the more basic roast chicken served in a pot on roasted Parmesan potatoes at $11.95 per person.
   Veal schnitzel with french fries tops the Plates for One sampling at $16.50 with sautéed boneless trout with Moroccan couscous, preserved lemons, asparagus and citrus vinaigrette at $13.75.
   Indeed, there’s seemingly a meal for everyone and his or her mate and the desserts are altogether delectable. We feasted on the PattiCake, a dense chocolate cake with pistachio creme anglaise ($5.50), though we were equally tempted by the Berry galette with housemade bourbon-vanilla ice cream.